Glossary

Not-for-profit association that supervises, coordinates and promotes the development of the Italian fashion industry, both domestically and internationally.

Reference: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana

Award-winning environmental not-for-profit organisation whose mission is to protect the world’s forests, species and climate. Since 2013, through its CanopyStyle initiative, Canopy has worked with brands and suppliers to keep pulp from ancient and endangered forests out of the supply chain for viscose and other manmade cellulosics.

It has drafted audit guidelines and a verification framework for viscose/cellulose producers. It has also obtained the commitment of nine of the ten largest rayon/viscose producers in the world, representing 70% of global production, to end sourcing from ancient and endangered forests. Canopy’s 2021 Hot Button Ranking is the primary fibre sourcing analysis tool for the fashion sector that focuses on forests.

References:
Canopy
Kering Standards

The term used to describe the flow of carbon (in various forms, e.g., as carbon dioxide) through the atmosphere, ocean, terrestrial and marine biosphere, and lithosphere.

Organic carbon is one of the main components of living organisms. Carbon dioxide is produced through the respiration of animals and plants, which consume oxygen and release carbon dioxide. Green plants take carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and release oxygen into the air in a process called photosynthesis.

References:
IPCC (2018) Glossary
Actu environnement

A naturally occurring gas, also a by-product of burning fossil fuels from fossil carbon deposits, such as oil, gas, and coal, of burning biomass, of land use changes, and of industrial processes (e.g.,cement production). Carbon is the primary man-made greenhouse gas in terms of its influence on Earth’s energy budget. As such, it serves as a reference for measuring other greenhouse gases, hence a global warming potential of 1.

Reference: IPCC (2018) Glossary

Quantity of greenhouse gases (GHGs) in tons of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e), emitted by (among other things) businesses, living beings and by burning fossil fuels. Carbon assessments are one way of measuring a carbon footprint.

See also: carbon footprint assessment

Reference: Dictionnaire de l’environnement

An evaluation of the amount of greenhouse gases released into the atmosphere by a company, an organisation, a city or a country in one year, calculated using a carbon accounting tool such as Bilan Carbone® or Greenhouse Gas Protocol (GHG-P). Emissions are categorised so that the entity calculating its carbon footprint can focus its energy and environmental strategies on those areas where emissions are highest.

There are three scopes of greenhouse gas emissions:

• Scope 1 are emissions that come directly from the organisation and its activities
• Scope 2 are indirect emissions related to purchased electricity, heat and/or steam
• Scope 3 are indirect emissions from upstream and downstream sources

Find out more

By calculating its carbon footprint assessment, an organisation can:

• Structure its environmental policy
• Identify ways to reduce its energy consumption and global impact
• Evaluate its vulnerability
• Stand out through positive action
• Comply with legislation (when applicable)
• Involve workforce or partners

ISO 14067:2018 specifies requirements and guidelines for the quantification and reporting of the carbon footprint of a product. It enables all types of organisation to calculate their products’ carbon footprint and use this information to reduce it.

References:
Ademe
ABC (2016) Réduire les émissions de gaz à effet de serre tout au long de la chaîne de valeur de votre activité
ISO 14067:2018 – Greenhouse gases

A state of net-zero emissions whereby greenhouse gas emissions from human activities worldwide are balanced by sequestration of equivalent amounts of carbon dioxide. In other words: capture and store as much greenhouse gas as we emit in order to stabilise concentrations of these gases in the atmosphere and, in doing so, limit global warming.

We commonly refer to carbon neutrality when emissions are in fact measured in carbon dioxide equivalents (CO2e). This unit converts any greenhouse gas into the equivalent amount of carbon dioxide with the same global warming potential.

Find out more

Carbon neutrality is an ambitious objective that demands two types of action. One is to reduce greenhouse gas emissions at source. The other is to capture and store CO2 in biological and technological sinks. Given the high level of man-made emissions and limited technological and economic capacity to trap and store carbon, the most effective means is to reduce greenhouse gas emissions at source. This implies rapid and radical changes to how we live.

Reference: Ademe (2021) La neutralité carbone

Financial mechanism whereby an individual, company or organisation negates (“offsets”) some or all of that part of its carbon footprint which is not reduced at source through the purchase, from a third party, of an equivalent amount of carbon credits.

The underlying principle is that greenhouse gas emitted in one place can be offset by the reduction or sequestration of an equivalent amount of greenhouse gas in a different place. This principle of “geographic neutrality” is central to the mechanisms set up under the Kyoto Protocol.

Find out more

The French Agency for Ecological Transition (ADEME) recommends the application of ISO 14021 (environmental labels and declarations) which specifies requirements for self-declared environmental claims, including statements, symbols and graphics.

See also: carbon footprint assessment

References:
Ademe
ISO 14021 – Environmental labels and declarations

A natural or man-made system that traps and stores a significant amount of carbon dioxide, thereby limiting concentrations in the atmosphere.

Forests, oceans and peat bogs are examples of biological sinks. Carbon capture and storage (CCS) technology is an example of a man-made solution.

References:
FranceTerme
Ademe (2021) La neutralité carbone

Action in which fibres are untangled and separated, then brought together into a loose strand of almost parallel fibres.

Reference: Refashion

Natural, animal fibre produced from the downy undercoat of cashmere goats. The fleece is harvested by combing or shearing in spring, when the animals moult. The fibres are washed, sorted then woven.

Cashmere goats are found mainly in Central Asia – Mongolia and Inner Mongolia – where the climate promotes growth of the downy undercoat, although some cashmere is produced in India, Afghanistan and Iran. China currently produces around 75% of the world’s cashmere, primarily through intensive farming.

Increased demand for cashmere has led farmers to significantly extend the size of their herds. The subsequent overgrazing has resulted in large-scale degradation of the fragile pasture ecosystems. In addition to its impact on biodiversity, overgrazing causes soil erosion which in turn generates dust storms. This diminishes air quality and, consequently, the health of the farmers and their families, as well as the quality of the cashmere itself.

Sustainable alternatives exist, such as wool or recycled cashmere. Certifications and initiatives such as Sustainable Cashmere Roundtable, Sustainable Fibre Alliance and The Good Cashmere Standard support the development of responsible production streams.

References: 
Kering Standards
Textile Exchange (2022) Preferred Fiber & Materials Report
The Good Goods

A product which supports a specific cause. “Cause-related” is a more targeted and less familiar qualifier than “sustainable” or “responsible”.

In order to comply with articles L132-1 to L132-9 of the French Consumer Code on misleading commercial practices, any claim that a product supports a particular cause must be substantiated.

References:
Centre National des Ressources Textuelles et Lexicales
Paris Good Fashion

A transdisciplinary branch that combines medical science with agriculture. Cellular agriculture builds on advances in tissue engineering, materials science, bioengineering and synthetic biology to develop new means to produce products such as milk, meat, fragrances or textiles from cells and microorganisms.

Reference: AgFunder

Centre for disruptive innovation and applied research in textiles, based in northern France. CETI imagines, experiments and prototypes products and materials for tomorrow’s markets and consumer trends, serving businesses in textiles, fashion/luxury and distribution.

Reference: CETI

A University of the Arts London research, education and knowledge exchange centre, based at the London College of Fashion.

Reference: Centre for Sustainable Fashion

The Certificaçao de Sustentabilidade do Couro Brasileiro (Brazilian Leather Certification of Sustainability) is awarded to tanneries that develop their activities with economic results, reduces environmental impact, and provides integral working conditions. It is supported by the Centre for the Brazilian Tanning Industry (CICB) and the Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency to encourage the participation of Brazillian leather in foreign markets.

Reference: CSCB

Voluntary process whereby an independent body* (third party) provides written assurance that a product, process, organisational system, service or professional competence meets the requirements of a standard or other specification. This standard or specification is usually negotiated and drafted through a multi-stakeholder process. Most of the time, certification is based on standards established by national bodies, such as AFNOR in France, or international organisations such as the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).

Certification can also draw on a reglementary framework. Government and public authorities are consulted but the content of specifications is drafted and reviewed by the certification body.

To summarise, certification refers to verification by an independent third party of a set of requirements defined in consultation with stakeholders.

*In certain sectors of activity, certification bodies must be accredited.

Find out more

The French Consumer Code defines certification of a product or service as “the activity by which an organisation that is separate from the manufacturer, importer, seller, service provider or customer attests that a product, a service or a combination thereof is conform to the characteristics set out in certification specifications.”

References:
Article L433-3 of the French Consumer Code
French Commission on Sustainable Development (2011) Rapport d’étape du groupe de travail “Labels entreprises responsables”

An external and independent body whose assessment of a product, a service, an organisational system or a process guarantees that the said product, service, system or process meets specific requirements.

The legislator can require that verification be performed by an accredited certification body. This is a body that has been authorised by the national accreditation organisation (for example COFRAC in France or UKAS in the United Kingdom) to deliver one (or several) specific certifications.

See: COFRAC, accreditation

Reference: French Ministry of the Economy, Finance and Industry (2021) Le label public, enjeux, définition et méthodologie

A symbol awarded in recognition of a system’s conformity to a standard or other specifications. Conformity is verified by a third party through (among other means) recurrent assessments, which can be conducted on-site or off-site.

While there is no official definition of a certification mark, there are regulatory frameworks which award certifications independently of those awarded to products and services.

In addition to these government-sponsored initiatives, certification marks can refer to private schemes developed by rating agencies, certification bodies, trade associations, non-profits, NGOs, etc. The organisation that develops and drafts requirements can also be in charge of awarding the mark: a third-party assessment is not obligatory. A wide range of assessment methods are used, from completing a questionnaire to on-site visits and audits.

An independent third-party auditor provides assurance that the mark has been awarded in an objective and impartial manner.

References:
AFNOR, A. Orain (2009) Les labels – Caractéristiques générales – Le label Diversité
French Commission on Sustainable Development (2011) Rapport d’étape du groupe de travail “Labels entreprises responsables”

See: cause-related product

Chemical regeneration of synthetic or man-made cellulosic fibres. Fibres are partially or totally depolymerised, i.e. broken down into monomers which are recovered and used to build new polymer chains. The resulting fibres can be used instead of virgin fibres.

Find out more

Despite its potential, the complexity and cost of chemical recycling currently limit its development.

See: recycling, mechanical recycling, open-loop recycling, closed-loop recycling

Reference: Tissu Premier et Collections (2012) Sur la route du recyclage textile

Also known as trivalent chromium, chromium III is widely used as an agent for tanning leather (80 – 85% of total leather production worldwide). It gives leather flexibility and elasticity as well as offering excellent dyeing and finishing properties, with good long-term stability and fade-resistance.

Under certain conditions, chromium III can oxidise into chromium VI, a known carcinogen. It can irritate the skin and the respiratory system, as well as having negative effects on the reproductive system.

References:
Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (2019) ZDHC restricted substance list
European Chemicals Agency (2012) Proposal for a restriction
Conseil National du Cuir
Première Vision

A system for economic growth that replaces a linear “take-make-waste” economy that drains finite natural resources with a system that keeps materials, products and services in circulation for as long possible at their highest value. A circular economy reduces material use, redesigns materials, products and services to be less resource intensive and recaptures “waste” as a resource to manufacture new materials and products.

Find out more

A circular economy encourages innovative approaches to products, services, economic models and public policy. As part of a product-service system (PSS), it advocates news modes of design, production and consumption focused on extended product life, use rather than ownership, reuse and recycling of components and the elimination of toxic products from manufacturing processes. A circular economy decouples economic growth from the consumption of finite resources, borrowing ideas from how natural ecosystems function.

Reference: United States Environmental Protection Agency

Climate change refers to a change in the state of the climate that can be identified (e.g., by using statistical tests) by changes in the mean and/or the variability of its properties, and that persists for an extended period, typically decades or longer. Climate change may be due to natural internal processes or external forcings such as modulations of the solar cycles, volcanic eruptions, and persistent anthropogenic changes in the composition of the atmosphere or in land use.

Find out more

Article one of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) defines climate change as “a change of climate which is attributed directly or indirectly to human activity that alters the composition of the global atmosphere and which is in addition to natural climate variability observed over comparable time periods.” The UNFCCC thus distinguishes between climate change resulting from human activity that alters the composition of the atmosphere, and climate variations as a result of natural causes.

References:
IPCC (2018) Glossary
United Nations (1992) United Nations framework convention on climate change

Process in which waste is collected, recycled and made into a new product in the same category, e.g. recycling a plastic bottle into another plastic bottle; recycling a cotton t-shirt into another item of clothing. Material obtained through closed-loop recycling maintains a high value in terms of quality and/or function.

See: recycling, mechanical recycling, chemical recycling, open-loop recycling

Reference: Zero Waste Europe, UNESDA, Natural Mineral Waters Europe, Changing Markets Foundation, and AIJN (2022) Towards a policy framework that enables efficient waste collection, closed loop recycling and access to recycled content

Comité Français d’Accréditation (COFRAC) is France’s sole accreditation body. Established in 1994 by the government, COFRAC guarantees the competence and impartiality of conformity assessment bodies (CABs).

Reference: Cofrac

A property of dye, characterised by resistance to fading, running or transfer. A soluble dye is made insoluble by the addition of reducing agents.

Reference: Paris Good Fashion

Plastic that can be composted industrially or in the home with organic waste. The decomposed plastic must not be visible in the compost and no toxic substances can remain. Composting is sometimes referred to as “organic recycling”.

European standards T51-800 and EN 13432 apply respectively to plastic packaging that can be composted in the home and at industrial facilities. ISO 17088 specifies procedures and requirements for plastics suitable for recovery through composting.

See also: OK Compost HOME and OK Compost INDUSTRIAL

Reference: ISO 17088 – Specifications for compostable plastics

Transformation of shredded synthetic textiles into pellets for the plastics industry.

Reference: Refashion

Control Union provides inspection services and certification for products and systems in the farming, agri-food, textile, biofuel and forestry sectors.

Reference: Control Union

International agreement between governments whose aim is to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten the survival of the species. It accords varying degrees of protection by applying different provisions to species included in three Appendices:

• Appendix I: Species threatened with extinction. International commercial trade is generally prohibited.
• Appendix II: Species not necessarily threatened with extinction but may become so unless trade is regulated.
• Appendix III: Species subject to regulation and for which the cooperation of countries is needed to control international trade.

Reference: Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES)

Natural fibre that surrounds the seeds of the cotton plant. The fibre is manually or mechanically harvested, separated from the seeds then sent to factories for spinning and weaving.

Although cotton plants are relatively heat- and drought-tolerant, water improves yield as well as the quality and length of the fibres. On average, it takes 10,000 litres of water to produce a single kilogram of cotton. In drought-affected regions such as Egypt, Uzbekistan, Pakistan and Australia, cotton growing adds to water scarcity.

Cotton is highly vulnerable to parasite infestation, making conventionally-grown cotton the most pesticide-hungry crop of all. The harmful chemicals used to grow cotton pollute water and have long-term effects on soil fertility, parasite resistance and biodiversity, as well as posing a serious health risk for local communities and, in particular, the workers who handle them.

While demand for organic cotton continues to rise, 79% of cotton is grown from genetically modified seed (Textile Exchange – Organic Cotton Market Report – 2021).

Organic, fair trade and recycled cottons (GOTS, BCI, etc.) are more responsible alternatives to conventional cotton. Linen offers fairly similar characteristics and is grown in a more environmentally friendly way.

References:
The Good Goods
A.K. Chapagain, A.Y. Hoekstra, H.H.G. Savenije , R. Gautam (2006) The water footprint of cotton consumption
Water Footprint Network
Textile Exchange (2021) Organic Cotton Market Report

A form of self-regulation in which companies incorporate social and environmental criteria into their business model and communication. In 2011 the European Commission defined CSR as “the responsibility of enterprises for their impacts on society”.

By adopting more ethical and more sustainable practices, companies can contribute to a better society and help protect the environment. The French Ministry for Ecological Transition describes CSR as “the contribution of business to sustainable development”.

European Directive 2014/95/EU on disclosure of non-financial and diversity information sets out a legislative framework for CSR.

See also: Non-financial reporting

References:
European Parliament and Council – Directive 2014/95/UE
French Ministry of Ecology – La responsabilité sociétale des entreprises
French Ministry of Ecology – Le rapportage extra-financier des entreprises

An initiative of the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) to foster better living conditions for smallholder cotton farmers in sub-Saharan Africa. Criteria cover environmental, social and economic aspects of cotton growing and ginning.

References:
Cotton Made in Africa

Not-for-profit trade association whose membership consists of 477 of America’s foremost designers. Its mission is to strengthen the impact of American fashion in the global economy.

Reference: Council of Fashion Designers of America

Certification awarded by the Cradle Products Innovation Institute for products that are safe, circular and responsibly-made.

Products are evaluated for their environmental and social impact in five areas: material health; product circularity; air and climate protection; water and soil stewardship, and social fairness. A product is rated Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold or Platinum in each area. Cradle to Cradle advocates continuous improvement and requires that certification be renewed every two years.

Reference: Cradle to Cradle

Highest grade of used clothing, linens or footwear for reuse and/or resale as second-hand.

Find out more

According to Refashion, the eco-organisation for the French textile sector, in 2020 56.5% of donated clothing, linens and footwear was reused. Of this, 95% was sold overseas. Only 5% was reused in France.

Reference: Refashion

One of the 19 strategic branch committees (“comité stratégique de filière”) that make up the French Conseil National de l’Industrie. Members of the CSF Mode et Luxe are representatives of the fashion and luxury industries, the government and trade unions. Its mission is to accompany the sector’s growth and maintain France’s position at the forefront of luxury and fashion worldwide.

An agreement signed in 2019 committed members to action that would support and promote fashion and luxury expertise. In 2021, an amendment to the agreement introduced three strategic priorities, including sustainable fashion and the ecological transition.

References:
Conseil National de l’Industrie
Crystalchain

Artificial cellulose fibre made from linter, the downy fibres around cotton seeds that are too small to be spun.

Cupro is produced via a closed-loop system: water and other products are reused until there are none left. The linter fibres are dissolved in cuprammonium (copper oxide and ammonia) then submerged in coagulation baths to remove the copper from the filaments before washing and drying.

Cotton linter is classified as waste. Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certifies that products and materials used to manufacture Cupro are recycled. Like Lyocell, which is made with wood pulp from sustainably managed forests, Cupro is a more responsible alternative to viscose and acetate.

References:
The Good Goods
Paris Good Fashion

Waste collection in containers that are assigned to an identified user or group of users. The collection point is located close to where the waste is produced, such as the user’s place of residence.

Reference: Mission commune d’information sur les déchets (2010) Traitement des ordures ménagères : quels choix après le Grenelle ?